A Journey to the Heart of the Alps: The Bernina Express

I’ve always been a summer girl. In fact, if you asked me which day feels like summer to me, I’d say July 25th. That’s the day I was born—on a warm summer day, right in the heart of the season. I love summer so much that when I found out I was going to have a daughter, I thought of naming her Yaz (Summer) or Güneş (Sun). But then, while I was pregnant, I decided to name her Ada, inspired by my love for islands. And I loved it. But when she was born, her name turned out to be Duru. :)

That’s life, isn’t it? You want something so badly, you make a decision, thinking it's the best, the right, the most perfect thing. It feels like it will be true forever, and then, in this strange world, everything changes in an instant. Because, as all the teachings say, the future is always different from what we imagine, and we can never know how things will unfold. I even came across a beautiful Tibetan proverb: “You can’t know whether tomorrow or the next life will come first.” That’s why I truly believe in the power of time, and in allowing things to unfold as they are meant to. I often remind myself that nothing is guaranteed.

Summer time

I told you, I’m a summer girl, right? Well, here’s the twist of life without a user manual: when I moved up north, the sun became a distant memory, and I found myself longing for warmth again. :)

Of course, when you change your life, it takes time to re-align and adapt (those who watch Game of Thrones will get me when I say, when you cross to the other side of the wall!). You start to let the snow, the snowy mountains, and the winter sun’s sparkle on the snowflakes blind you. And then, instead of blaming the cold weather, you blame the wrong gear. So, you begin researching hikes, skiing, good equipment, and snow holidays in -1214 degrees.

And that’s exactly what we did last week. To satisfy our overflowing love for snow, we ventured into one of Switzerland’s most beautiful towns, St. Moritz, with our close family friends. We hopped on the Bernina Express, one of the world’s most breathtaking train journeys, and immersed ourselves in a winter wonderland.

Bernina Express

When you stand in the presence of so much snow, the grandeur of the mountains, and feel your own insignificance, you can't help but be in awe. But the most important rule of survival is adaptation. And here, people have adapted so well that they actually use ice to travel between towns! They ice skate on frozen lakes, watch polo matches on snow, and sip their warm drinks under the winter sun while happily enjoying their cigars. It’s as if they belong to both this world and some magical otherworld at the same time. :)

24-hour open entertainment clubs, live DJ shows by the fire under the open sky, and a charming ski resort intertwined with history, nature, and elegance—St. Moritz is truly a place like no other. And of course, the most striking feature of this place is that it’s one of the most popular stops of the Bernina Express. As you probably know, Switzerland is like an open-air museum, and natural beauty is bursting from every corner of the country, including here. :)

St. Moritz

Now, let’s talk about the breathtaking Bernina Express. This unforgettable train journey, which takes you through glaciers, lakes, bridges, and valleys—making you feel like you're on a privileged ride—is one of the most scenic routes in the world. The main route starts from Chur, Switzerland's oldest city, heading south toward the heart of the Alps, and ends in Tirano, a town on the Italian border. If you decide to do the full route, it takes 4 hours one way. During this 122 km journey, the train passes through 55 tunnels and 196 bridges, cutting right through the mountains. Some of the key stops along this route include St. Moritz (where we went), Alp Grüm, and Poschiavo—and trust me, they’re all worth seeing.

Where you start and end your journey on this train route is entirely up to you. We stayed in Poschiavo and, after a visit to Alp Grüm, we hopped on the train for a two-hour ride to St. Moritz, enjoying the stunning views along the way. We spent the whole day in St. Moritz, and then returned to our cozy mountain house, filled with memories of the train ride and the amazing scenery. The most famous stop along this route is Alp Grüm, where the most incredible photos are taken. At 2,091 meters above sea level, this is the highest point on the route that can be reached by electric train, and you can either take the train or walk there. I’d imagine walking might be a bit challenging in this season, so let's appreciate the train ride! :)

The Bernina Express takes a 20-minute break at Alp Grüm—kind of like a pit stop—where some passengers get off and others board. Here, you can get a panoramic view of the Palü Glacier, the Bernina Mountains, the Poschiavo Valley, and Lake Palü. It’s truly a dreamlike experience that transports you into another world.

Bernina Express

If you really want to take this train, hold on tight, because I’m about to share the most important tip: Ticket reservations. Tickets sell out months in advance, and finding one can be quite tricky. The route is incredibly famous, beautiful, and very touristy. And we all know what happens when these three come together, right? :) So, I highly recommend that you book your Bernina Express tickets directly from the Swiss Railways website well in advance, according to your desired route, and don’t forget to make a seat reservation!

In addition, the Bernina line was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2008, and it’s now part of the World Heritage List. Whether it’s the snow-covered mountains and glaciers in winter, the valleys blooming with flowers in spring, the crystal-clear lakes and lush forests in summer, or the golden-leaf-covered mountain slopes in fall, you can experience a different unforgettable journey in every season. Honestly, the control of this region seems to lie in the hands of those train tracks. :)

Of course, when it comes to glaciers in winter, we couldn’t resist dedicating a day to skiing. There are so many different slopes, and you have the chance to ski all the way to the Italian border. Even if you’re unprepared, you can rent ski equipment—this luxury ski resort makes sure you can easily find gear right in the city center, even if you don't have your own. The shops, window displays, and the scent of real fur are everywhere in the air. :)

If you're looking to enjoy delicious meals, have a great time, and take in the valley views, you should definitely visit the Michelin-starred restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton hotel without a second thought. In the evenings, you can also enjoy live music accompanied by piano. And, of course, it’s guaranteed that you’ll savor the winter sun on the hotel terrace.

St. Moritz

This adventure is definitely worth the long journey. But one of the most important things is not just the trip itself, but who accompanies you on this journey... Just like this weekend, when I laughed so much that my stomach hurt, I wish you all white journeys full of laughter!

Cheers,

Betty.